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Tango at midnight, the best steak in the world and a city that runs at full emotional volume.
Buenos Aires has the European café culture without the European reserve. The cobblestoned streets of San Telmo, the Parisian avenues of Recoleta, the Sunday feria market and parrillas that stay open until 3am — it is one of the great cities for walking, eating and staying up too late.
The tango milongas that run from midnight to dawn are a complete immersion in a living art form. Argentina's economic situation makes it extraordinary value for Western visitors — check the current exchange rate carefully before travelling.
Milongas that run from midnight to 6am, the Teatro Colón opera house and the street performers of La Boca — Buenos Aires is South America's most culturally alive city.
Argentine parrillas are a cultural institution. Malbec served by the glass for pennies. Empanadas, choripán, asado — some of the world's best simple food.
Recoleta's Parisian apartments, San Telmo's Belle Époque buildings, Puerto Madero's modern waterfront and La Boca's coloured corrugated iron houses.
The best restaurants, Sunday market, natural wine bars and the most liveable neighbourhood.
The old colonial quarter — Sunday feria, milongas and a neighbourhood unchanged since the Belle Époque.
The most European district — Parisian apartments, the famous cemetery and the best cafes.
Research the current exchange rate carefully — the informal rate situation changes and has legal implications
Argentine mealtimes are late — dinner never before 9pm, parrillas peak after 10pm
For authentic tango: arrive after midnight, observe for 30 minutes, then use the cabeceo (nod) to invite or accept
Fly into Ezeiza (EZE) not Jorge Newbery (AEP) for international arrivals — they are 45km apart
ATMs have low withdrawal limits — take out the maximum each time and notify your bank before travel
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Curated activities worth booking in advance — via GetYourGuide.
San Telmo milonga with traditional asado dinner.
The colonial quarter and the best antique market in South America.
Natural wine bars and the best restaurants in Argentina's most sophisticated neighbourhood.
The Paraná Delta waterways by boat.
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Daily budgets, hostel picks, transport tips and no-fluff advice.